GORD ON GRAPES
Stay close to home and you'll be glad you did
September 13, 2008
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Gord Stimmell
WINE CRITIC
Today's Vintages release features 100-plus new global wines, including 22 Ontario entries. This heralds a huge promotional push to get Ontarians to taste the treasures of their native terroir. The program, spearheaded by the Wine Council of Ontario and the LCBO, consists of 1,000 consumer tastings at LCBO stores in coming weeks as well as more than 70 schmoozings at in-store "event kitchens." Go to winesofontario.org or call the LCBO helpline (1-800-ONT-LCBO) for details of tastings in your area. So you can sip before you buy!
What's great is there are virtually no stinkers in the fresh Ontario selections. For instance while the Inniskillin Montague Chardonnay rose to the top in my tasting, a Jackson-Triggs Delaine Vineyard Chardonnay and a Château des Charmes St. David's Bench Chardonnay were almost as excellent.
As far as vintages go in Ontario, I adore the 2007 whites. The 2007 reds, still emerging from oak aging, are equally stunning, having benefitted from a long dry sunny growing season where full ripeness was achieved.
As for 2006, winemakers had to work their craft hard due to persistent rainfall that led to later than normal harvests. A grape swollen with rain is happy, but it does not make intense wine.
The vintage of 2005 was recovering from killer winter vine and bud damage, which led to some very concentrated grapes and wines. A struggling tiny grape does make great wine.
Included in this column is one foreign wine, the Casas Patronales Carmenère. It was the best buy red of the entire global release at Vintages stores today. But hey, sip my top Ontario selections. You will not be disappointed, I guarantee.
Mike Weir 2007 Estate Pinot Gris $15.15 (Ontario)The
Mike Weir wines, crafted by Creekside Estate winery, deliver consistent
value. This pinot grigio dishes up lemon-peel, lime and pear aromas
leading into a very crisp lemon grass and apple finish.
LCBO # 043364
Food suggestion: Chicken fingers
Rating: 89 out of 100
Jackson-Triggs Proprietors' Reserve 2006 Shiraz $16.96 (Ontario)
Jackson-Triggs
has ramped up its winemaking prowess. This shiraz proves the point,
with smoky black cherry, cedar and vanilla aromas and flavours layered
with mocha, cherrywood and black fruit.
LCBO # 089359
Food suggestion: Grilled lamb chops
Rating: 90
Inniskillin Montague Vineyard 2006 Chardonnay $17.95 (Ontario)A
pioneer Niagara winery is back on form. This single vineyard chard
shows smoky peach, lime and hazelnut aromas. The flavours show a fine
balance of sweet/dry citrus with smoky apple layers.
LCBO # 586347
Food suggestion: Roast game hen or chicken
Rating: 90
Pelee Island 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon $24.95 (Ontario)
The label shows wine pioneers in early Pelee Island days.
Fragrant black cherry, cedar, vanilla herald flavours showing an
elegant black currant, cedar and cherry delivery. Lovely depth and
finesse.
LCBO # 530576
Food suggestion: Pan-seared filet mignon
Rating: 90
Casas Patronales Reserve 2005 Carmenère $14.95 (Chile)
Best buy global red of today's Vintages release. Forward blackberry, cedar, cola and cherrywood aromas lead to rich mocha, black cherry and black plums depth. This is an astounding value red.
LCBO # 065383
Food suggestion: Baby back ribs
Rating: 90
Toronto Star